Friday 8 September 2017


Castle Road, Kentish Town

As living proof that even the most ordinary London street can have a fascinating history behind it, I recently came across some interesting stuff about Castle Road, where my mum lived in the 1940s and 50s, and where my brother and sister were born*.
Castle Tavern c.1800

Kentish Town was inhabited long before Somers Town and Camden Town existed. In the late 1700s, it was a “pleasant and healthy...  village where people take furnished lodgings in the summer, especially those afflicted with consumption and other disorders”. In addition to these summer visitors, there were day-trippers who travelled by coach to visit the open slopes of nearby Hampstead Heath. After a stroll in the fresh air, the next stop might well be the Castle Tavern and Tea Gardens (in what is now Castle Road – the Kentish Town Road end) where refreshments of various kinds were sold, and ‘amusements’ on offer. These included concerts,
Site of original Castle Tavern & Tea Gardens
which were held upstairs in the inn.  A surviving handbill from 1833 advertises a ‘living model’ by the name of Mr Herbert, who posed as a Grecian statue to entertain the punters during the interval between acts.  The illustration above shows the Castle Tavern in its heyday. Visible on the left of the picture is an archway leading into the tea garden, where the ladies & gentlemen would be served with their tea and scones before their return coach ride to London. From one coach an hour in 1800, by 1820 the service between Kentish Town and the city had increased to seven coaches, between them making a total of 50 journeys a day.

But not all the visitors who came were day trippers passing through, others came to visit family. We
know that whenever he was in London, Admiral Horatio Nelson used to stay with his maternal uncle William Suckling, a customs house official, on Castle Road. The house backed onto the river Fleet and was adjacent to the Castle Tea Gardens, which boasted a scenic bridge over the water.  There is a further naval connection in the names of the Tapping the Admiral pub, (below left) a Victorian hostelry which replaced an earlier one on Castle Road called the Trafalgar, and the Nelson which used to be at 87 Castlehaven Road, now replaced by social housing.
Tapping the Admiral pub, 77 Castle Road
 
 
The Victorian Castle Tavern
The Castle Tavern was eventually sold to developers in 1848. Its once-famous gardens disappeared under roads and houses – now Castlehaven Road, Castle Place and Castle Road, (known until 1912 as New Hampstead Road). A new pub (below) was built in a slightly different location to its predecessor, at 147 Kentish Town Road on the corner of Castle Road. Described soon after its rebuilding as a ‘splendid gin palace’, it is currently awaiting its next owner.
No.2 Castle Road
 
56 Castle Road
These days Castle Road is nothing special - mainly post-war council housing, but the oldest house in the road - number 2 (above), built back in the 18th century for the landlord of the Castle Tavern - still survives. Now part of a funeral business in Kentish Town Road, it has a strange little Gothic door.

And at the other end of the street is no. 56 which has its own history… of interest to my family, if no-one else! Here are my mum’s memories of living in Castle Road during and after the war.

“I remember that it had at least four pubs, one at each end of the road and two in the road, there was a barrage balloon in Castlehaven Road which ran across the middle road and it was enormous but don't remember it being launched. Us kids used to play around it. There was an undertakers business called 'Cooks' at the top end of Castle Road  and it had a big clock which was at an angle and we could see it by standing outside our house and my mum used to send me outside to get the right time.  They buried my Dad in 1943. We lived over the Doctor’s surgery. Dr Lipitz was a German Jew who, we heard, had escaped the Nazis by fleeing to England in 1939.  When the air-raid siren went he would run to our brick shelter in the back yard and stand there shaking until the all-clear went. [When we lived there in the forties and fifties] they were mostly large Victorian-style houses in Castle Road with steps up and nobody had a car (except the Doc). There were surface shelters in Grafton Crescent, just off Castle Road but they were cold and damp which is why we went down the Tube!” (Pat August, nee Blundell, 83)

 
References:
London’s Hidden Rivers David Fathers (2017)
Camden Town and Kentish Town Then and Now Marianne Colloms & Dick Weindling (2012)
Website: http://www.closedpubs.co.uk/london/nw1_camden_castletavern.html
Website: https://www.camden.gov.uk/ccm/cms-service/stream/asset/?asset_id=3292260&
Blog: http://edithsstreets.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/