Hungerford Market

Though not as familiar a name as Smithfield, Billingsgate or Covent Garden, Hungerford Market was around for the best part of two centuries and stood on the site now occupied by Charing Cross and Embankment stations…

'Old' Hungerford Market 

By the 17^th century, the Charing Cross and Strand area had become densely populated and needed itsown market. After a meeting held at 'le greyhounde taverne in le Strand’ to discuss the matter with local residents, a market – to be held on three days a week - was approved in 1678. Hungerford Market finally came into being in 1682. Funded by Sir Edward Hungerford, it was built on the site of his family house which had burnt down in 1669.

Unlike most London markets, Hungerford had no particular speciality.  It sold fish, meat, and all types of fruit and vegetables. After 1685, the area became very popular with the Huguenots and the market soon became known for selling ‘furren’ goods. In 1688 the large meeting hall upstairs became Hungerford Market Church and it remained a place of worship until 1754.

Hungerford Stairs (l and r). Blacking factory is on the right 

By the beginning of the 19^th century, however, the ‘old’ market - indeed the whole of the Charing Cross area - was looking decidedly down-at-heel. It was during this time that Charles Dickens was working at Warren’s Blacking-House at Old Hungerford Stairs. He described the building as a “… crazy, tumbledown old house, abutting of course on the river and literally overrun with rats.”

A new market company was established which acquired the site of the old market, together with the adjoining houses in Hungerford Street and a few in the Strand. Demolition of all these buildings began in 1820, and in 1831-3 a grand two-storeyed structure in classical Italianate style went up in their place.

Opening of New Hungerford Market 1833

 It was designed by Charles Fowler, architect of the new Covent Garden market buildings and opened with much pomp in July 1833, the occasion duly marked with a balloon ascent and an evening firework display.

The new market had a Great Hall measuring 188 feet by 123 feet with shops built along both sides of the hall and in the galleries above. The floor space was reserved for the sale of fresh fish and for other casual stall-holders.  The two end pavilions were used as inns. 

New market building with Brunel's bridge 1850

In 1841-5, Brunel was commissioned to build a pedestrian suspension bridge to serve the market, allowing easy access for the housewives of Southwark and Lambeth. Its brick and stone piers are still in place today, supporting the current Hungerford railway bridge. In 1851, a bazaar and art gallery were added. Henry Mayhew’s described the new market complex as “the great West-end emporium for fish (including periwinkles and shrimps), flesh and fowl”.

Demolition of 'new' market for Charing X development

In the end, however, New Hungerford Market was unable to challenge the dominance of Covent Garden and Billingsgate.  Critics thought it “of too general a character and attempts too much in trying to unite Leadenhall, Billingsgate, and Covent-garden Markets”.

As if to seal its fate, the market suffered extensive fire damage in 1854, and by 1860 was demolished to make way for Charing Cross Station. The Hungerford Railway Bridge we see today was completed in 1864 to replace Brunel’s earlier structure. Officially called "Charing Cross Bridge," the old name has remained in common use, and is now the only surviving reminder of the connection of the Hungerford family with this neighbourhood. 

References:

George Scharf’s London: Sketches & Watercolours of a Changing City 1820-50 Peter Jackson (1987)

Walking Dickens’s London Lee Jackson (2012)

Shepherd’s London J.F.C. Phillips (1976)

The London Doré Saw Eric de Maré (1973)

The Times History of London Hugh Clout (2004)